[0:01]Welcome everybody. Getting the edge. Advantage play workshop. Today we're going to cover the seven physical elements that go into a controlled dice throw. So the seven physical elements or the seven dials as I like to refer to a mass, such as dials that can be adjusted upward down similar to a sound engineer's mixing board. You tweak each style to get the result that you want. The importance of understanding all these is because you can't master dice control without understanding a all the elements, but understanding how to uh adjust each one independently and all how they work together to get the desired outcome. So, 99% of the people that you see trying dice control, they have one throw and it looks like this. It's usually typically over here on the pass line. They grab the dice like so. They do this. They go towards the wall and they release straight out with their hands pointing directly at the wall. Um we do that sometimes also, but we found this much more effective. And I'll go into the reasons why. But before we get into all that, let's go over the seven elements. The seven elements can be divided into two parts. Direction and distance. So the distance styles our speed, spin, landing angle and distance they land from the back wall, which will also correspond with the distance they end up and come to rest from the back wall. So, those four directional or distance slats will determine how far away the dice not only land initially but end up from the wall. And that is speed as in how fast you're throwing the dice at the wall. The farther away you are, the harder you need to throw them to to reach the wall. Um, the closer you are, the slower you need to throw them. But there is a sweet spot. Combined with spin as in when they as in back spin, which they will always have some back spin, some more than others, depends on depending on the type of throw that you're shooting for. Um and uh distance where it lands will correspond combined with the angle will tell you how the dice are going to react once they land. We use a speed square in our background for reference. We use 45 as our baseline. Everything will either be steeper or more shallow in relation to 45°. The launch and landing angle are typically the same. Everything works in an arc. If you come in more shallow, they're going to come in something like this and then skip into the wall. If you come in more steep, they're going to bounce higher up on the higher towards the wall or they may come up all together and then catch the wall on the way down. This is no good. You can use a steeper throw as long as you're landing closer to the wall. You can use a shallow throw, but you don't want to throw them close to the wall when you come in shallow. Cuz if you throw them in in a shallow angle and it comes close to the wall, it's still going to have a lot of speed coming in and it's going to hit the wall and you're going to see dice that end up way out here, farther away from the wall. So there is a sweet spot. And it's not necessarily 45 degrees, but everything works together. If you shall out the throw, you need to reduce the distance away from the wall or land shorter from the wall and then that combine with backspin is going to offset some of the energy transferance once it is forward. If you come into step and to short, it's going to pop straight up and never reach the wall. If you come in too hot at any of those throws, it's going to hit the wall and end up way out here. So you need to find the right combination of speed, spin, landing angle and the distance from the wall should be determined on the landing angle. Um so it's speed spin and landing is the three key elements of that. The distance is determined by what landing angle. So for me, I found depending on the table I'm playing at, the firmness of the surface, the back wall is usually pretty consistent. But all of these things we work on to try to neutralize their only level or only measure of defense. So those are the distance styles. The remember, the closer to the wall the dice come to rest, the better. That means they the less they rolled and tumbled out, thus increasing variance and you losing control. The other half of the elements are directional dials and that's going to be in relation to either the surface, table surface or the center line. So let's just say for the purpose of this video, the center line is here. Typically it's actually over here where the pass line would be because that's where you would be gripping the dice over here. So on a real table, the center line would be here. Uh and that's why in a lot of my videos, you'll see most of my dice landing over here. Um but we use all the different directional angles in different throws. It just depends on what we're trying to achieve. All right, directional dial is in relation to the center line. Each groove is 5 degrees. So this would be 5 degrees to the right, 10 degrees, 15 and so on, 5 10 15 to the left. We do not throw like everyone else. We can, but we just don't do it. We found we get far greater results using a combination of directional angles um to get the desired results that we're looking for. The second dial of the directional dial is face angle. Face angle is in the face, which way the dice are facing in relation to the center line. 5, 10, 15. So 20 degrees to the left would be 1 2 3 4 5 10 15 20. 20 degrees from the center line, which would be right there. Directional angle, face angle. Third one is tilt angle. Tilt to the left, tilt to the right. The The purpose of changing your face angle and using tilt angle is to create a directional bounce upon landing. Now 99% of the people who try dice control, they throw it like this, straight at the wall. They want the dice traveling right at the wall. That makes no sense to me. I've I've tried it. I had a marginal level of success with it. I found this is far more effective. Why would you want to throw the dice direct at a pyramid that could create the dice to go either way, left or right? I don't know if you've noticed, but on either side of the pyramid is a flat surface. So upon discovering this years ago when I was struggling with the straight back and straight forward throw, not getting very good results. I I just started experimenting with different angles, directional face and tilt. And I found that by combining two offsetting angles, directional angle to the right, left face angle. I ultimately ended up realizing that I could get the dice right up into these grooves right here.
[8:19]And what would end up happening is that instead of going either way, it was a lot more consistent because it would go boom, directional bounce to the left up into the flat part of the pyramid. So that once I realized that I started focusing on that solely and this has been going on for about five plus years now. And what ends up happening is I mean that one or two outcomes. I'm going to come in perfectly to the right side of the pyramid which acts as a flat wall. It's going to actually get adjusted or corrected by the side because as you notice, look, it goes here and then if if it turns this way, right? It flattens out. And of course, it's going to come back down and you're going to get a little bit of a spin or roll out. The other thing is going to happen is if I'm just a slight hair to the left when it gets the directional bounce to the left, I'm going to catch the point and it's going to then turn and spin like a top. But take a take a step back. What essentially what I'm doing is I'm eliminating the left side of every pyramid by creating a left directional bounce. And so instead of getting four or six possible outcomes by hitting on either side, top or bottom of one of the pyramids, I've basically eliminated one side of them all together. And so now that I know that the dice rolling to do one or two things, they're going to go boom, they're going to go boom and back in which where they came or boom boom and spin out like this. Is any time that you see the dice land and hit here and then ultimately end way up over here, that's usually what happened. I was just a hair too far to the left and it caused to fall out here. Doesn't mean it's going to hurt every time, um, doesn't mean it'll help you every time. It's a mixed bag as we know. I mean, there is just a tremendous amount of variance in this game. But by eliminating similar to what a golfer does when he shapes a shot off the T. What does he do? He has trouble on the right, like water, he shapes it away from the water. He goes at the water and he curves the ball away or vice versa if he's hitting a fade. And that's to eliminate one side or half of the golf course. I took that same approach here to this. And and what ends up happening is I start throwing a lot of similar uh groups of numbers. And so every table that you play at from game to game or surface to surface or casino to casino, you're going to have different set of circumstances at each table. Once you get used to that those conditions, surface balancingness, back wall, all these different variations, you're going to have to take a few times with the dice, a couple of rolls to really get in the groove to figure out what's working and it's are you further away? Are you, you know, all the different things that are different from your home area? But you have to practice to be able to develop the skill to make the changes while you're somewhere else. So someone who sees this video and says, oh yeah, this is just at your home, your home practice. Well, of course it is. This is where you develop the skill. Then you take those skills to some other place and then you learn all the different elements and how to make those micro adjustments from table to table. That's what makes you a consistent winner from one place to the next. Um, but that's the importance of why you need to understand all the different elements that go into it. Face angle, tilt angle, directional angle, speed, spin, velocity. All of these things, um, the more that you work on these independently and then work on them together, you'll develop such a much finer touch and skill because you'll know that, okay, I'm not my dice are landing this way and they're all over the table. I don't have any control. That's the first thing that you have to assess when you attempt to do this. A, am I in control or am I out of control? Okay, I'm seeing a degree of control. All right, what am I doing differently? What's happening to my dice? My dice are landing here, they're always shooting over to the left. Okay, well, now we just need to aim slightly to the right or vice versa. And it's these micro adjustments that you have to make in game is what gives you the ability to beat any table that you're at. The game can be beaten easily. I could beat the game uh every day of the week. That's not the problem. It's the table conditions that you have to be able to adjust and adapt to on the fly from roll to roll, session to session, casino to casino. And you can't be able to make these small micro adjustments from one place to the next if you only know one way to throw the dice. And so this may work just fine, more power to you. I actually started learning that the first time because I thought that was the way to do it. And that is a successful way for many people. But I found that being able to train myself and learning how to do all the different throws, high, low, medium, coming in sideways, uh using more backspin, less backspin. It allows you to develop the skills and the muscle memory, excuse me, to be able to make these micro adjustments. So those are the seven physical elements.
[14:15]Now, the what you're what you're after and what everybody should be after is a shot that lands softly, touches the wall, comes back to rest of the table with the least amount of bounce and roll out anywhere past here, you've lost control. What You'll find a lot of times is that one of the dice will be here, the other one will be over there, that's going to happen to everybody. Even the even the highest skilled shooters still going to have to deal, they're going to have to fight the conditions and they're going to have to fight their their throw for a period of time. But the more skilled the shooter, the more the more you practice using all of these different angles and and learn how they work together, you'll be able to make these adjustments to beat any table that you go to given enough turns with the dice. That's a whole other story. We'll get into another video. The game of craps can be beaten. The house edge is only 2% at most if you're playing properly. If you can control the outcome of the dice slightly, you can negate that edge and get two or three points in your favor. I've found I think we get anywhere from 10 to 20% edge on a consistent basis. And I'm going to show you how. But back to the kill shot is what I like to refer to it as. It's the shot that comes in perfect. It doesn't hit any higher than here, here at the very most, but I try to keep it underneath the bottom row. It needs to come in, it needs to hit, it's either going to go boom, boom, boom, back to where it came and then boom, boom, and that's it. It's going to finish somewhere within this semicircle right right here. That's why I drew this to give myself a reference. It may be over here if I'm actually landing over here because of where my station is, which is a bit more realistic considering, you know, the center line of a real crap table is over here. Um, but you know, you'll still be shooting different angles, different tables. You know, because let's just say, you know, you're throwing right here from center line, you got a lot of chips, you got all these people in the hook right here, right? We got a lot more, you got a lot more obstacles that you could bounce into and it could it could hit the dice and make it turn over. Uh in a way that you don't want it to. So but this area over here is clear. So now it's better to aim over here. So all of these different angles that you need to be able to practice at. You need to practice throwing whatever angle you choose face angle, tilt angle. You need to be able to know how to work it over here, boom, boom, and you need to know how to be able to work it over here as well. And so depending on who's how many people or arms you got at the other end of the table. And it's it's understanding all these different elements and how they work together to get the desired outcome. Because if you only have this one shot, right? And it's to land it right here. And you got a whole bunch of people down here. Well, that's not the area that's not the area you need to be focused on. You need to focus on over here where there's less people unless obstacles. Um, but the the kill shot is really what you're after. Boom, boom, boom, boom. All right, and then the ultimate kill shot is one of these. Lands perfectly at the same time, maybe even the wall first in a sideways kind of like this coming in and a spin and then it turns and spins out like a top. Because that's what all these angles do. They create a directional bounce into either the right side of the pyramid or catch the center and then turn it and then let it spin out like this. And the reason that's a good sign when you see one of the dice is that whatever side it is, it's it holds that number like a top. And we do not shoot for an on-axis toss. I shoot for an off-axis toss using the hard way set, which is one's on the left, sixes on the right. And if the if the statistical probability over time of a random shooter rolling a one or a six, using the hard way set is 30%. And you can get double that. Well, that means you're going to skew the the roll distribution by significantly. You're going to roll less sevens because the only combination for say, just for hypothetical, if you had every single time you had the dice on a six. Well, the only way you could seven out is if the other dice was on a one, right? And vice versa. And so by doubling the the the roll distribution of of the dice being on a one or a six more than double the random roller, you're automatically going to be lowering the chances that you're going to roll a seven and also, you're going to be rolling less six and eight and more 59s, 4, 10, 3, 11, uh two and 12, which all pay better. So you want to plan to get the dice for less time and hit higher paying numbers. And once I discovered this years ago, this is really the only way to go in my opinion. I still play the hard eight and hard 10 traditionally. If I'm throwing a lot of hard fours and hard sixes because my whatever I'm doing is consistent and I know that my dice are landing in my spot, they're reacting the same way and I'm rolling a lot of hard fours and hard sixes. I'll just bet a hard four and a hard six. So give yourself the flexibility to not be in a stuck in a rigid system, as long as you're doing what you want with the dice and you see the dice are responding the way that you normally see them at home, but you're getting a different number grouping, just move your bets over to that to that group. Um, you know, you have the flexibility to bet on whatever you want. But as a rule of thumb, eliminate half the table. Eliminate half the bets. Eliminate half of the pyramid. Only hit the left only hit the right side. Uh, don't bet on all the numbers, bet on half the numbers. You're lowering the amount that you're wagering so that when you do ultimately seven out, you've lost less. But you're still you still have enough numbers in the mix to make a profit on a on a fairly scattered roll distribution. So we tipically about the five, eight, nine, 10, I hop the three and the 11 or the or bet the C and E if I don't want to shade one number higher than the other. And then I bet the hard four and a hard eight, roughly half of the numbers. Um, the last thing I want to say is that whenever you're playing, the first thing that you need to do is do not worry about what numbers are coming up on the dice. When you first get to the table, your first order of business is to dial in your throw and find your range. Figure out the table. And here's another thing we're going to lead into later about how to camouflage your skill. But before you even start setting the dice and getting all that and worrying about what you're betting on, you need to come in and bet small until you figure the table out and you've gotten comfortable. Once you know where you need to land at what speed, at what spin rate to get the proper desired outcome where the dice are acting in a kill shot type manner. Some are better than others. Some kill shots are better than others. Some are just beautiful. And then they don't ever move again. Others are boom boom boom boom. But they're still, you know, fairly tight, close proximity to one another. They come in and they and they stop landing at the same time. Uh, that was referred to as correspondence. Uh, in a book. I won't mention the name of it, but uh, it made some sense. He was talking more about the numbers and how many times they pitched, but my perception of it is is that whenever you throw in the dice and they go and they stop the same time and they come to rest the same time in close proximity. That means you were influencing the dice. You let them go at the same time, they were spinning at the same time, they hit the wall at the same time. And then however they landed after that, that's the variance. But whenever they go. Something like that. That's when you knew you were in total control of the dice. Now, whatever numbers show up, that's just it is what it is. You can't control that. But look for that first. Do you have control of the dice? Are you hitting your spot? Do you have the speed right? Are they behaving the same way? Uh, once you have that and you feel good, now start paying attention to the numbers that are coming up. As you do this more and more, you can do this all simultaneously. Um, it'll all just be such uh it'll be second nature to you. You'll always realize it and you'll know what's working and what's not.
[24:20]Um, back to the back to the uh the the first the your main purpose when you first get there is since you're not really concerned about what numbers you're hitting because you're just trying to find your range and get dialed in. Well, any person that buys in for a significant amount of money, it's and gets it stick left one or stick right one and starts setting the dice and starts, you know, doing the same old routine like that. Well, the first thing that they're going to do is they're going to realize that you are attempting to be a controlled shooter. They don't they haven't been able to assess your skill yet, right? So they're going to watch you. And they're going to make sure that you hit the wall. I have more trouble with boxmen and and dealers about hitting the back wall when I even when I am hitting it. It's because I came out of the gate doing my same routine, looking like a, you know, looking like a controller. And you know, if I start winning right away, they are all over me about hitting the wall. And that's their job, that's fine. But they don't realize is that I've already taken all this into consideration. I plan on hitting the wall. But they don't know what I know, and they don't know enough. All they think is that I'm intentionally trying to not hit the wall, which is not true. I've just learned how to to find a way around it. And so, when I first get the dice, I'm not as concerned about setting the dice and getting all that. I really come out betting small, betting the minimum, unless I've already been playing that day somewhere and I'm already warm and I just went from one table to the next, then I'll just keep up whatever I was betting originally. But if it's early in the morning, I haven't thrown the dice yet. I didn't bring my practice rig with me. I haven't warmed up. I'm going to find my range. So while I'm doing that, and I know I'm pretty much just a random shooter anyway, because I haven't figured it out. I'm not even I'm not even going to bother setting the dice. I'm going to set them down like I normally do. I'm not going to put them on a set. I'm going to do my throw and I'm going to find my range first betting the minimum. This does two things. Number one, it doesn't put a bunch of pressure on me knowing that I'm trying to hit the number I'm shooting for. Because I don't really care. I'm betting so small, it's not going to it's not really going to make much of a difference whether I win or I lose. I'm looking for that I'm looking for that golden throw about four, fifth, six roll in where I'm betting anywhere from 500 to 2000 total spread. Uh 500 obviously in the beginning, but I'm trying to get up to somewhere around 2000. And so when they see that I'm not saying the dice initially, I'm going to kind of lawl them to sleep a little bit. They think I'm just another guy. Um, as I'm finding my range, I'm also going to start to look to how much they're paying attention to me. If I see they're really sweating me hard and they're and they're really uh, you know, they or maybe they're just a tight a tough crew. Maybe they really are sticklers about the rules. I mean, I've seen all kinds. I've seen places in Oklahoma, they didn't even care. Uh in one casino at the other one they were like Nazis. And so, first thing that's what you're going to do. You're going to find your range. You're going to assess the type of crew you're working with. Uh are they jerks or are they super friendly? Tipping them always helps a little bit uh within reason. And so once I found my range and I've assessed the type of crew I'm working with, All right, then I'm going to know what I can get away with. Not necessarily like I'm doing anything wrong, but I know that they're not going to be a stringent if I come up a little short one time. Uh which is probably going to happen anyway. You know, you everybody has bad throws, you know, you're not always going to hit the wall. Uh sometimes you're going to hit it way too hard and lose control. It's just it's a mixed bag. So, you're accomplishing two things. You're camaloging your skill a little bit, what you're intentionally going to be end up doing once you start betting enough to where you're where you're really uh you're going to make a score or you're going to lose. You know, that's you're just trying to get yourself into a rhythm first. And then once you've kind of lulled them in a little bit of a false sense of security, thinking that you're not very uh you're not you're not an advantage player. Well, then you can start to slowly set the dice. And as they give to you, you know, you can then just set them, but set them quickly. You know, I got to say I I I appreciate everybody who attempts dice control, but one thing I don't appreciate is how long it takes people when they're trying to do this. I mean, it just slows the game way down and it just for me personally, I need to get into a rhythm because I I practice like I want to play, which is I want to play at an empty table, maybe no more than two people at the table, three max, so I can get the dice frequently. And when I can do when I can get the dice frequently, if I had to stop and play and practice like this, I wouldn't get nearly the amount of throws that I can get at home. And and that that works two ways. If I if I'm practicing quickly at home and I'm having to play slow in the casino while I'm not in my groove. And vice versa. And so, you know, speed the game up. You know, you should you should do this enough to where you can just grab them, set them and then, you know, and then let them go. And that's that's all I have to say about that. But I think those are all key points and I think it's very important that people first learn what the dice are doing when they land. And that's also going to help you analyze your rolls, but other skilled controlled shooters to it's going to teach you how to assess their skill. You know, if you've got a guy who sets the dice like this, he goes through all the motions and he throws it and it and it and he does everything that you would see of dice controller do. But one roll he hits it here. The other one he hits it over here. The other one he hits it here. The other one he hits it here. He's not consistent at all. So I don't I don't know how he can expect to have any type of consistency or influence over the dice if he can't hit the same spot. I mean, if you watch some of my videos, I mean, I'm pretty much hitting, I don't know if you can see this, but I've got a, I mean, couple hundred thousand little white dots here, uh where the edges have landed in this one spot right here. And that's a huge groove. It's like a, you know, it's like ball markers on a pitching wedge, where they're all right in the center. I mean, this is where I hit 100% of the time unless I'm intentionally trying another angle. But you need to be practiced enough where you can grab them and go and hit your spot. And once you see a guy that's doing that, even if he's not rolling great numbers, maybe he only had the dice once. Maybe he isn't found it yet. And so that's the first thing you need to do is assess the skill of another shooter, but also be able to use it to analyze your own rolls and figure out what adjustments you need to make using the seven dials to give yourself uh the dice result that you're looking for. And uh and that's crucial. And so, um, very important, practice every angle, shallow, steep.
