[0:16]Hi everyone. Today I'm going to work on a dress shirt pattern. Like the image shown here, it is a design with buttons and a placket. In this exercise, you will import a pattern and an avatar and then place the patterns around the avatar before the sewing. I'll just work in order so you can follow me step by step. First, I'll show the files that I added in the library. and then we can start placing it around the avatar. So your folder within the library, you can see it here. Just connected it and can double click on it, so I can load the DXF pattern file to work on today. And the avatar to use is also in the avatar folder in the library. I will bring up the version two female avatar in order to arrange the patterns nicely around it. So this is what I'm going to do next. We need to organize the patterns first, set the front panel to fit the front panel based on the avatar shadow. Next, the sleeve pattern. I'll also arrange the back seam patterns in order before I'm going to start with a simple sewing.
[1:45]For this, I'm going to select the segment sewing tool, which would be shortcut N.
[1:59]I just start connecting my side seams, pay attention to my sewing direction, then I connect the shoulder seams, and I also can sew the sleeves along the side straight away and connect the sewing line between the yoke and the body on the back seam. Now we're going to sew the sleeve arm hole. We will connect the back seams, first aligning them as a standard. So based on these two notches, align the notch to the sewing line and sew. When the notch is enlarged, it is cut in short proportions, so pay attention and do not miss this part.
[2:52]And of course, I'm going to sew by aligning the direction of the sewing line. Now the upper part, just like this. And it's a two-piece connection.
[3:06]So in this case, the tool you're currently using can't be used as it is. So press the segment sewing firmly, change it to M to N segment sewing. I'll press the tool and change it to M to N. First of all, set the sewing line of the segment to be N. When you have all sewing lines set for M, press enter on the keyboard, then click on the segment which you want to be N, and likewise, when you completed the N sewing line, press enter on your keyboard. The same applies for the next step. The next part from the shoulder seems towards the front. Again, since this is a job that requires sewing one to one, likewise, it cannot be used only with the segment sewing tool. This time, it's not an M to N, but a segment sewing tool. So let's learn how to sew one by one using a shortcut key. When changing the tool again, select the tool, hold it down and switch to the segment sewing tool. And then first set the sewing line at the position to be, the one sewing line where it shorter parts will get connected to. After setting one sewing line by clicking at it, so come and move the cursor, also if you press the shift key on the keyboard, the color of the sewing line will change to a fluorescent color. And then connect this sewing line with all according ones on your arm hole. Just in line with the sewing machine notch, and make a connection as when sewing. If you let go of shift, you can complete one or more sewing. In the case of many to many, you have to switch to the M to N sewing tool to work. In case of one to many, you don't have to change tools. Then the arm hole is also aligned with the seam line. You can connect according to the notch. So now I'm going to sew the neck. Fit the center part on the back panel, connect them side by side. When I connect the rest of the front again, the position that becomes one like this. And here you can see that the front neck line is broken by many points. So in this case, first I click on the position of the sewing line one to set it. Hold shift and then move to the front. By setting the sewing line, you can easily manage one to many, and connect then the remaining neck pattern on the back. Now let's work on the sleeves. So first look inside the sleeve body. As a baseline, there is information about the design of this pattern. So the baseline is the purple light colored line in the pattern, not a line that can work on patterns separately. So just think of it as if it were painted. And to work with this line, you have to select the trace tool, which would be shortcut I, because you need to change this line into an internal line, so you can work on the pattern.
[6:36]To convert baselines into internal lines, use the trace tool shortcut I. I'm going to use this tool to select the lines I want to make into the internal lines that I can use. I can just select multiple lines all at once by pressing down shift. And once I have selected them all, I press enter on my keyboard, so they will turn automatically into internal lines.
[7:00]Another option that I have could be also selecting more, also here on this placket. So I select again multiple baselines, also here on the sleeve and on the placket, and then I right mouse click, so I get this drop-down menu.
[7:22]And can here select trace as internal line or shape. First, I'm going to make this tuck here in the sleeve. Here it's shown what a mount is folded into the baseline now. The direction in which it folds is well marked. So in this amount that folds over there, I need to cut off the midpoint. So now if you change the tool to edit pattern and make a selection, you will see that the outline of the pattern is connected all the way around. Just like this. This is because it's not separated by a straight point. In this case, you can then use the internal lines. With their help, you can create the point that cuts the segment exactly in the middle. So select both ends of the internal lines that intersect with the pattern outline, right click on the mouse, and here you can select the menu to extend, trim and add points to the outline of the pattern. If you select the menu there, it will also add a point at this location at the end of the internal line.
[8:38]So if you check the pattern outline, you will see it's divided in multiple segments. So you can now draw another line at the midpoint on this line.
[8:51]So we need to make a fold line between the two marked ones. And in order to do this, to break down the point in the middle of the segment here, I'll select the add point tool at the top. Going to select that tool could also use shortcut X. And if you right click on the line segment, the split line window appears. So you select the bottom menu here, divide the quantity into two pieces. If you click okay, it's calculated into two segments with this same length, because the point will break it in the middle.
[9:29]And now I change the tool to internal polygon line tool. Shortcut G.
[9:40]So if you click on the point you took and double click on the line segment at the end, you can easily create an internal line in the middle that you can fold later on.
[9:54]Next, I'm going to put the folded angle along the direction of the baselines here. I'll quickly resize the window. Then the pleats fold tool will appear here on the top right. So select this tool and create an arrow in the direction of the baselines on your pattern. Just like this, click once to start the position and then move the mouse cursor like this to the right. There is an arrow that gives you a preview of your direction of your future fold angles. So I'll include all the internal lines and double click. Then my design is knife pleats. Here is a menu called number of internal lines per pleats. That lets me decide how many internal lines will fit in one pleat. It can also be displayed, and since I drew three lines, I now have to select three for this menu. Below, you can set how smooth each fold is. So usually, zero and 360 degrees are selected.
[11:03]You can also choose an angle that is less flat of course. And once I'm done with the folding angle, I'll just sew the tuck below. I will now change the tool to the free sewing tool.
[11:23]The fold angle here is on 0 degrees, which is shown in red, and we are going to create a seam line where the red line is. At this time, the amount of pleats is not marked in the direction going to the left. So first, create a sewing line where you know the length. So here I create the sewing line from one side towards the middle line. And after that, I will get the blue dot, so I know how long I have to sew that piece down here towards the left.
[12:12]You just have to work so that the two sewing lines face each other, and take the 360 degree lines as a reference. If you set two sewing lines like this, so that the notch faces each other as much as the amount, sewing for one tuck is done complete. And since all the sewing lines just made our sewing lines where the pattern and the pattern overlap, I'll use the edit sewing tool to edit the sewing line. So you can use the edit sewing tool, also shortcut B. Select all the sewing lines you just set up and set the sewing line type to turned. You can find this function in the property editor, and you need to change the part to turned. If you don't do this, it may be recognized as a seam that just sticks side by side. In that case, this tuck will not stick flat, and the part where the sewing line is connected will float flat. The sewing line that needs to be pressed flat on top of the pattern is exactly where the pattern overlaps. I always select this with the edit sewing tool and change the sewing line type just like this to turned. Then this time, I'll work on attaching the placket on the right side. So if you take a look at the cuff pattern on the sleeve, this cuff has two buttons, a button and a button hole. You can also see the location marked. So because the button and button hole are locked and overlapped, there must be a location where this pattern is open, but it can overlap. Just like you can see here with these scissors. So there is a baseline marked on, but I will create a separate internal line that doesn't go just until the very top of this marking. So I select the internal polygon line tool, starting from the top where it opens up by clicking once, then I'll go straight down the baseline and double click on the outside of the pattern. And then I change the tool to edit pattern, right mouse click on the internal line, and then you can select cut from the menu. So then this line is not connected to the outside of the pattern, but it ends in the middle. Now I will try to sew the overlapping placket in here.
[14:51]I will do so with changing to the segment sewing tool. So first I will sew the placket from the outline. Just connect the notch to the sewing line, so that the shape is exactly the same. So now, if the entire line is connected to the right side, the meaning of creating a slit will disappear.
[15:20]So I turn the tool into a free sewing tool, then start my sewing line, and will only sew to the position and set the length by matching the blue points. There is one more location where this placket is sewn, which is at the hem. So if the hem is connected all the way, it won't work to create a slit here. So when I sew this placket onto my actual sleeve pattern, I just need to make sure I connect only the part until the pattern cuts open. Also I do this again with the free sewing tool, where I get the length first that I can use then here on my little placket pattern and connect the sewing line only until the blue dot.
[16:11]Also, this pattern will later on be superimposed, so that means it will lay on top of this sleeve pattern, which means I make sure I select all my sewing lines. And make sure the sewing line type here again is set to turn, which will just ensure my little placket pattern will just lay flat on that sleeve pattern. Just quickly again, I'm in my edit sewing tool, I make sure I have the right sewing line selected that will lay on top of each other later on, go to my property editor and set it to turned. In the next step, I will connect my placket with my sleeve, also the internal lines as you can see here. And these ones are easy because they go just simply on top of each other. And this one long line here that you can see, which will also ensure that the slit will close. I will use the one to M sewing that we have seen before, with pressing shift and attaching two short lines to one long sewing line.
[17:25]The right side of this little placket, I will leave open, because later on this will be the end and also opening of the cuff at the same time. So in the next step, I can focus on sewing the cuff onto the actual sleeve pattern. This is going to be a one to many seam, because it's connected to this position all the way. And from the location where the slit is located, I will connect all the way except the overlapping sewing line. Just like here, so you can see how I'm leaving out the tuck because this is the amount of fabric that will fold under. The next part, the remaining amount of the cuff will then meet at the side seam of the sleeve, and return from the right side here, just like that. I'll draw this in orange so you can see it better. So to sew this on, I will use the free sewing tool. Shortcut M. And then I start by clicking on the outer line until the first notch, finish the line with a left click. And what you can see marked here is in form of a baseline the position of the button hole, which will always be on top when you close the cuff of a sleeve.
[18:50]So this is why I will start the connection now, sewing the cuff on, and the first bit I have to attach is the little placket. Now I need to press shift to connect many sewing lines to one, just like we did before on the sleeve. And then I will start here with the internal line marked for the position of the placket until the first line that marks the position of the tuck. Then I will leave out again, as I already mentioned, that amount of the tuck, which will fold under. Continue at the third line, which marks the last fold of my pleat, and sew until the side seam of my sleeve. As soon as I finished my sewing line, I let go shift, so the connection has been made. And then I connect the remaining part of the cuff, which will get sewn onto the right side of that sleeve pattern, just like that.
[19:59]With the free sewing tool, as it's only one connection, no need to press shift here, and I finish with one click at the blue dot where my sleeve seam ends. The rest of that sleeve I will finish later, once I have arranged and placed it around my avatar. And also in case I find that the library window here is narrowing down my view on my 3D space, I can now either click on top of that library window to close that temporarily, or I press shortcut Y. And now I will just start with the arrangement. Here I can use the transform pattern tool to also refine the arrangement in my 2D pattern window even a little bit more. And if I want to reflect my layout of my 2D pattern window onto my 3D window, I'll just press the button reset 2D arrangement all. As soon as I press that, you can see how it's reflecting perfectly the arrangement on my 3D window, which I have on my 2D window. And to get better view on the avatar, I press control A to select all patterns, move them at the side, and turn on the arrangement points. I can find them either in the toggle bar or with shift F. And now I can start placing my patterns by selecting one by clicking on it and then Then I press on the arrangement point where I get the perfect preview for it, and like this, I place piece after piece. Here I'm adjusting the layout of my little placket pattern to my sleeve a little bit with my gizmo. And then place both of them around the arm of my avatar. If you place it like this, it won't be easy to select the arrangement point on the wrist. So if you go down the menu on the bottom to the property window, as it is, the arrangement properties are shown. So I'm going to adjust position Y here, then select the cuff pattern and click the arrangement point on the wrist to place it correctly. Then I press eight on my keyboard to see the back view of the avatar. Here I can select the back panel patterns all at once and click on the arrangement point on the other half. At this time, the re-center is more deviated from the center of the arrangement points. So again, in the properties window, you can adjust position X to move it a bit towards the avatar. I'll push it a bit around. And as a last step, I'll place the collar stand and the collar pattern by clicking the arrangement point next to the avatar's neck. The remaining space is also among the arrangement points on the back of the avatar. So I'm going to pick the color and click on an arrangement point that's a little bit more outside, just like this. When placing the center of the selected pattern, it will be positioned at the clicked arrangement point. So therefore, at this time, it's a half pattern, and again, I adjust the position X in the properties window by turning this color a little bit around the neck. Once you have finished using the arrangement points, you can turn off the view again and then continue with working on the shirt pattern. I'm going to put the gusset attached to the side of the pattern here. The notch is well marked, so you can use it. And I'm going to make an internal line to sew it on the inside here. So if I select it with the edit pattern tool on the first notch position like this, the point is well divided, but the second one is not. Which I can see because the whole line is selected. And in this case, you can use the notch tool to make a stride line of the pattern. So you select the notch tool and use it by right clicking on the notch. There is a menu. So select the notch tool, right click on the notch here and then select add point to notch. And if you select this on the pattern, you can just add straight points everywhere you want to. There is also no point for a lower notch on the front. So likewise, I select the add point to notch. Select the edit pattern tool again and now I'm going to make an internal line from the new segment that I have created here.
[24:41]So here I have to see how far do I have to place this internal line, which I can't know yet, so I'll check the number. The length of that top part of my gusset pattern, and as I only need half here, I'll enter half the value for the internal line. So I right click on the newly created segment, select the menu called offset as internal line.
[25:31]And then I get a pop-up window where I enter the low distance, just like here, for example, 6 mm, that I can use to arrange a smooth fold. To achieve a smooth fold, we will again use the fold arrangement tool in our 3D menu. By choosing the fold arrangement tool, I can then click on the new created internal line and just simply fold my shirt collar downwards towards my garment and then simulate. Now the folded shape is nice and completed, and in order to continue my work, I will also first do some tidying up again. In this case, I will set my avatar into a clear position. So I click on my library window, or open it by shortcut Y.
[26:29]Go into my avatar menu, the corresponding folder for this will be within the avatar folder for the version two female avatar and then pose. And you just have to choose the pose carefully, if you want to see a larger thumbnail, you can also click on the icon view here to get a bigger preview. Then I'll double click on the correct post here and wait until it has finished the simulation. Simulate again for a perfect finish. And then I will combine the work that has been divided in two parts on my back panel patterns here. I will change the tool back to the select move tool, simulate once again. And with the off and on simulation, you can easily fix some minor simulation mistakes.
[27:46]Coming to the end, I'm going to use the high resolution garment tool at the top of the 3D window, getting this input window here. And by reducing the particle distance and particle spacing, so the additional thickness collision between the garment. The mesh will become more dense for a nice simulation. The drape will be more natural and also in that state, the thickness of the collision is lowered. We will also lower the avatar skin offset to zero, so the spacing between the garment and the avatar becomes more natural. If you change the simulation quality to fitting and then press okay, the complete garment simulates more accurate and also more realistically. This needs a second to calculate. This is also properties that also can be all changed by clicking on one pattern piece after another. Then the simulation tool changes to the fitting state by the arrows also turning red. And if you run it again now, it will, yeah, as mentioned, look more realistic. Click again to stop the simulation. And for the fine tuning, I want to give the collar and the collar stand a little bit more stiffness. So I select transform pattern, and both my collar patterns here. Then I move on to the property editor, and here I can directly go to the drop-down menu for bond Skype. Click on the little arrow on the left, so the drop-down menu opens up. And then I tick on the box for bond, just like this. So both my patterns turn orange immediately, which means the fusing or bonding now is applied. And if we take a look at the folded line on the collar here that we made before to actually fold it down, we can see that it's still very sharp. And in order to make this look more soft, we can choose the edit pattern tool. Go to the pattern, choose the line, the internal line directly, and then here, tick off the option for fold rendering. So if we then simulate again, we can see how that fold just drapes down more naturally again, and simply looks more realistic. Next step, to also get a nicer view of my whole completed garment, I want to then change the view of my garment here in the little toggle bar. For the garment view, I will turn off the internal lines, and as soon as I turn around, I can only see the fold here better as well. Also internal lines everywhere else have disappeared. And now as soon as I click on that fold line again, with edit pattern, I can even adjust the fold angle to not be as sharp, and to drape a bit softer. Then I will simulate again. And see what kind of a different it makes for my outcome in the end. That's the little fine tuning here. So whatever gives me the result that I'm aiming for.
