[0:02]Right, let's start with jiggers because they're the easy bit. So, the jigger is actually marked on your pattern. It's just a little bit that looks like um, this. And essentially, hopefully you can see on that you see these little things here that have got lacing holes and they just pull your waste to get in at the back. So if you had a modern way scope, you would probably have um a little strap made out of the same fabric as that back up the line and just it just it in. And it's particularly important on these period waist coats because we haven't got any waist shaping otherwise, we've got no darts. The only shaping, we've got a little bit of shaping on this side set back um, side seam. So that this is one way of doing jiggers. Um, I've got this horrible waist coat down again. And there are the jiggers with the eyelets there and they've set it all the way into the seam. I've done mine a little bit short.
[1:04]Um, so it's a very simple thing. It's just bagged through. There's two things to think about. First thing is that um, you know, the original waist coats, the backs would have been in lining or something like that, something a bit more gutsy. And we're just using these very thin lining. And I think if we just use two layers of that trying to put eyelets through it, A, I don't think the eyelets would take, they wouldn't bite on to each other. I mean you wouldn't get a nice straight flatten. So I just found a bit of calico and I mounted my jigger on top of the calico. You could put a bit of iron on, if you could put a cambric in, whatever you've got. But just think about what it's doing and that will help you to think about the the fabric. Um, so it's a very simple, it's bagged through. The way it's going to go on to the waist coat. It's a bit like doing the welt pockets. We sew the welt pockets facing downwards to start with and then you flip up. It's sort of the same with this. So I'm going to sew it on in the wrong direction on the placement line, like that. And then I'm going to flip it over and I'm going to stitch again. I'm going to stitch there. I'm going to trim some of this seam allowance away and I'm going to flip it over and stitch it so that they're already stitched in. Therefore, if I just did a longer version of this, if I I continue this line straight, when I folded it over, I'm going to see the bulking corners.
[2:37]So all I've done if you can see the black is I've gone down like that and then I've just come back on the same angle. So this line here is where I'm going to stitch and I've just taken that angle down. And so, as usual, I'm just going to clip the corner right off diagonally like that.
[3:07]It's made out of your lining, whatever the back, basically made out of whatever the back of your waist coat is. So in your case, it's lining. But, as I said, two layers of lining is really. So I would I put something in it to make it a bit stronger. And then I'm going to have to clip it in here because there's more fabric here in the same allowance and less fabric here. So if I don't clip here, it won't turn through. This is required for the 18th century one. Yeah. And it's marked on the pattern. Yeah. So, you want to lay your back nice and flat on the table to make sure that the is sort of nice and aligned.
[4:55]Right. Um, I'm going to understand. And then I'm going to understand. So there's my little jig and I've got my placement line. I'm going to place that on the line on the pattern. I'm just going to stitch that on.
[5:21]And I'm going to stitch through, turn the seam allowance, press it over with your firm the iron and then I would just do another row of stitching here just to hide those raw edges.
[5:39]And then you want some eyelids. I mean, in this case I would do three eyelids probably for the size. You can you can make two if you want to. It really doesn't matter. I need I've got one, that one. That one they've got three. Um, I'll just, I'm just going to get a bigger size. I'm just going to get a bigger size. I'm just going to get a bigger size. Top tip for when you if you want to mark your eyelets really accurately. So, mark your eyelets on one of your jiggers and put them in so you've actually got them in in in the fabric. And then take your second jigger and line them up and you can just mark the holes through the eyelids that you've already made. So that's actually, that's a top tip when you come to your corset. So eyelid one side and then lay them together and mark them and then you get them spot on much more accurate than you would you just try measuring them. Yeah, you can make them later.
[7:25]Um, right, colors. Um, so let's just have a little Oh, that's let me just grab that. Let me just grab that. Let me just grab that. Let me just grab that. Let me just grab that. Let me just grab that. Let me just grab that. Let me just grab that. Let me just grab that. Let me just grab that.
[7:33]So let's just have a little look at the stand and the shape of the neck. So if you look at the back of the body, this is actually quite straight and then it just takes back the right. Well here, you look at it right down.
[8:18]I'm going to put the on like that. I'm going to pin it on and I'm going to pin it on. I'm going to pin it on.
[8:37]I'm going to pin it on. You can see the same thing. So you can see this is actually quite straight and then it just takes up. So if you know, if you think about your back neck, you put your finger back neck, that runs quite straight.
[8:50]But here we're going right down in a curve and the other thing about the neck is that it so it's going to be bigger here and smaller here.
[9:15]So if I measure that's 14 inches and that's about 13 and 4 inches at the top. So the first thing I need to do is to my because you're going to do your own. Okay?
[9:30]I and I did this deliberately because I I wanted to teach you how to measure a curve and B I was a bit worried that if I just put the pattern in there everybody would just on and what they were doing and we'd end up with some um.
[9:47]So hopefully, none of that today. So what I suggest you do is that you actually start by measuring the neck on your pattern. The reason I want you to do it on your pattern is that it's quite possible that if you've made a mistake, if you've not been terribly accurate when you've joined up your shoulder seams.
[10:09]Or if you pull things around it, then your fabric might have stretched a bit, particularly um, the wool, you know, has got quite a lot of give in it. Although that's one of the reasons we put canvas into the front is to try and stop that happening.
[10:25]But just in case, so I'm going to measure on the pattern because I think it's more accurate than it is measuring on your garment. Remember sort of last time I went on and on about, you know, how you'd spent lots of time putting all the marks in, marking all your seams, seam lines exactly and then some of you not following them. So we're going to start by measuring on the pattern and you remember that on your 18th century waist coat, you've got your little button stand and you did your little step um before the collar start.
[10:57]So, very unhelpfully, my tape measure has got a solid end.
[11:03]So I'm going to do, do we want to do centimeters or inches? I would like inches, but that's just Yeah, I I do inches. So if if everybody okay with inches. So what I'm going to do because I've got this solid end that won't bend around the curve. I'm going to start measuring from 10. Okay? And I'm going to see on the screen. So here's 10, here's my starting point.
[11:29]And I'm standing the tape measure up on end like that and I'm measuring like that.
[11:41]And that is 1 and 3/4. Is that right?
[11:51]Yes, that's right because the one we did earlier was in one go. So, So that's 4 and 3/4 inches on the front. I'll do the same thing on the back. So standing tape measure up on end, starting at 10.
[12:10]And that is 3 and 1/8. This is also the way just in case you haven't been shown how to measure a curve, have you? No. Okay. So it would be the same thing for measuring an arm hole.
[12:25]So, you you can't really sort of do it flat like this because it doesn't it doesn't really work and it it sort of you're going to lose accuracy if you try and do that and you're certainly going to lose accuracy if you're around here and if you try and do it with a ruler, which somebody was talking about doing this one. So, if you stand it up, so it's actually at right angle, the table. That's really going to help. Yeah.
[12:53]So I've got 4 and 3/4 and 3 and 1/8. So that makes 7 and 7/8. And I'm going to be happy with my math.
[13:04]The measurement on the Mongolian might be different. because the Mongolian um, we don't have the button stand and it's just it's just a different pattern. So, don't take this numbers. Um, and what I would like you to do is I would also, before we start that, I would just like you to check. Lay your pattern piece on your waist coat.
[13:25]Has anybody got an 18th century waist coat to hand? Unfinished, yeah? Yeah. Yeah. No pressure. It turns it turns out on the bus. It it saved my life.
[13:47]Guys, I left this on the bus and I got back on the same exact bus an hour later, only to find my waist coat laying there.
[14:18]I know. You're all shocked. It's fine. So you can see. 's done his little step here. It's like crazy. but there we go.
[14:33]So and of course you could have stitched your shoulder seams here. So that's not going to help. So his original mark, the original is there. Yes, very well done. Okay. So let me just I'm just going to pin that down like that so that um, maybe I won't get confused like I did. And I just want to check. Look, that that matches. And it does look like that's stretched a little bit.
[15:01]Can you see? Maybe. Yeah. So yeah, in your case, I think I would just sort of measure that. Yes. Just check to see if you're not out, just in case. Thank you. Yes. Um, all right. So, assuming that everything is right and everything is okay, what I'm going to do is I'm going to draw a rectangle.
[15:32]7 and 7/8. And I'm going to look at my design. And I'm going to decide how deep I want to make that waist coat, that that collar, depending on my design. I mean to me this is higher than this. Obviously this seems to have a rounded corner and this seems to have a straight corner. Um, so let's say, should we do it? Let's let's look at this one and let's say well it's quite a similar to the pocket.
[16:44]Yeah. Just visually and the pocket, I know, is an inch and a half deep. So let's do the collar an inch and a half deep.
[17:14]Just so you don't get confused, I'm going to label this center back fold and I'm going to label that center front. Yeah. Now let's just look at this for a minute. This is this is a little ethnic waist coat.
[17:30]And you can see the, but that collar is an absolutely straight rectangle like this. But you can also see what happens because it's a straight rectangle and it does something a little bit peculiar at the front here.
[17:45]So, instead of um, going up straight and continuing, it goes out at an angle because we've effectively put a straight thing onto a curved shape. Um, see if I can show you this with this.
[18:07]And if I try and put that round there like that, it's not really very flat and it's sort of sticking out a bit at the front. Um, and and it's you can see that the angles wrong. So what we really want to do is we want to get a little bit of curve into it so it's going to sit nicer at the neck and remembering the top of our neck is smaller than the bottom of our neck. So I'm going to do that a really really simple way. So I'm going to fold my collar in, I'm going to divide my collar into four, my half collar into four. So I'm just folding it.
[19:01]So I'm going to fold my collar, I'm going to divide my collar into four, my half collar into four. So I'm just folding it. Okay. And I'm just going to fold. I'll cut that. Just so we literally don't get confused. I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay.
[19:48]And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eighth of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. So I'm just going to fold, I'll cut that. Just so we leave it. Don't get confused, I'm going to label this top and I'm going to label this neck. Okay. And along these lines I'm just going to fold out about an eight of an inch on the top to nothing at the bottom. Okay. And that way I can get a little bit of curve in it and then pin that in. So here's my top next. So I've actually reduced this half pattern by 3/8 of an inch in total.
[22:01]So if I double that, because my color is cut on the bone, that's 3/4 of an inch. And that sounds about right to me. So it's quite a nice simple easy way for you to do your your pattern. Um, you might decide with your Mongolian waist cut, that you want to do it a little bit higher. You might decide you want to curve off the corner because that's what you in design. That's your pattern. and what I would do is I would then make a clean copy of the pattern. Um, and I would do it on a piece of folded paper so that you've got a complete um, color pattern.
[22:40]Yeah, all good at that. Yeah. Right. So now it comes to making our color up. So yeah, here's the pattern from this.
[23:08]And this is the same. It's very slightly smaller. So I'm just going to show you on this one that I've already done. I take a piece of my top fabric. I've matched the and I've put I put onto it a piece of canvas. Because this canvas is quite lightweight, I'm actually leaving it in the turnings at the the the top, but I don't really want to stitch through canvas around the neck edge because uh, remember we got you to actually cut the canvas away from your arm hole and from your center front so that it, you know, it wasn't too bulky in and allow us to turn things through nicely and it's going to be the same with this.
[23:36]This corner is a little bit to to sew on. So this edge here at the bottom is absolutely the same as the bottom edge of my my pattern like that. And to make my life easier, I've marked my center back and I've also marked where my shoulder points will come. So that, you know, when we measured the front neck and the back neck, so if you measure from the center back you measure to if you're marking the shoulder points, it's going to make it much easier to be accurate.
[24:06]And you can see that mine is at the same place on the canvas. But I've left some seam allowance in the canvas just because this is quite soft canvas, it'll give you a firmer edge.
[24:34]Um, if I were using um, proper color canvas, which is much, much stiffer, I would probably just cut the neck shape. So sort of like you did with your um, welt, your welt pockets. So I'm going to press that down and it shouldn't need clipping.
[24:54]Maybe if you've got a silk or something that's not much give in, you might have to give it a little snip just to get down the curve, but the wool is quite quite, you know,ble.
[25:17]But at the moment I'm going to leave my front edge open.
[25:34]So I'm going to do this, it's just much easier to do it before you put it on, you know, rather than trying to sort of work with a bigger amount of bulk.
[27:30]So here's my collar, um, I'm just going to get a bigger size.
